Calf's Sweetbreads in a Truffle Sauce

Serves 4

PARIS, 17 October 2006 —A recipe by Jean-Michel Bédier, formerly at Le Chiberta restaurant in Paris,  from the book by Pierre-Jean and Jacques Pebeyre, Le Grand Livre de la Truffe .

Ingredients

6 - 7 ozs of Calf's Sweetbreads per person
1 whole Celeriac
Lemon juice
4 1/2 ozs Butter
1 Shallot finely chopped
2 tblspoons dry Sherry
1 tblspoon white Wine
Sprigs of Chervil
Salt
Pepper from the mill

For the Truffle sauce:
1 1/2 oz (40 g) tin of Truffles
1 Shallot finely chopped
2 fl oz Truffle juice (this is available from the best specialist food stores)
1 tblspoon dry Sherry
2 fl oz natural "jus" from a roast fowl or roast of veal

 Le Grand Livre de la Truffe
by Pierre-Jean and Jacques Pebeyre
Hardback: 160 pages, Illustrated 
Robert Laffont, Paris (27 October 1987)
Language: French
ISBN: 222105511X
Once listed at 33.17, a new or used copy can command much more on the web.

Preparation

1. Begin with the Truffle sauce:
   
   Coarsely chop the truffles. Put the shallot in a saucepan with 1/2 oz of butter. As soon as the shallot starts to become transluscent add the chopped truffles. Cover and allow to simmer for 2 minutes. Then add the truffle juice, the Sherry and the "jus" from the roast. Cook gently for 10 minutes then blend for some time until you have obtained a thick creamy sauce. Allow to settle for a while before removing the overlying froth. Set aside and start preparing the sweetbreads.

2. Preparation of the sweetbreads:
   
   Cleanse the sweetbreads thoroughly for some time under running water, then place them in a pan of cold slightly-vinegared water and bring to the boil. Allow to cook for 30 seconds once the water starts to boil then cool immediately in very cold water. Remove the fine membrane surrounding the sweetbreads, then cut each portion into four equal parts.
   
   Peel the celeriac. Cut into 1/2 inch slices, then repeat the operation at 90° so as to obtain square "fingers" which are 1/2 in x 1/2 in. You will need 4 per person. Square off the ends so as to obtain 4 "fingers" per plate of about 3 inches in length (see presentation photo). Place the celery "fingers" in a saucepan with a little lemon juice and 1/2 oz of butter, adding simply sufficient water to cover. Cook gently for 6 minutes. Drain. Then place in a saucepan with 1 oz butter and golden gently. Withdraw from heat and keep warm.
   
   Blanch the brocoli spears for a few seconds in boiling salted water, then cool them off immediately in very cold water. These will need to be reheated at the last moment for a few seconds in boiling water.

3. Using 3/4 oz butter and a tblspoon groundnut oil, sauté the sweetbread pieces over a high heat. As soon as they are nicely browned reduce the heat and cook gently for a further 5 minutes. Set aside and keep warm. Remove the fat from the pan, and start afresh with a knob of butter and a chopped shallot. Cook for 15 seconds, then deglaze with 2 tblspoons of dry Sherry and 1 tblspoon white wine. Reduce by 2/3s. Strain and add to the truffle sauce. Heat the sauce until it reaches the boil, then remove from heat and add 2 oz of butter, blending thoroughly. Taste and adjust the seasoning if required.

4. Presentation.
   
   Place the celery "fingers" to form a cross on each plate and interspace with the sweetbreads. Garnish with a brocoli spear in the centre and decorate with a few sprigs of chervil. (See photo for presentation).

A Recipe by Jean-Michel Bédier, formerly at Le Chiberta restaurant in Paris,
from the book by Pierre-Jean and Jacques Pebeyre, Le Grand Livre de la Truffe, published Daniel Briand - Robert Laffont, Paris. (in French only).

160 pages - richly illustrated with photographs by Margaret Skinner et Georges Veron - of starters, single course dishes, traditional and modern recipes blending the subtle flavours of the truffle with a wide array of shellfish, crustaceans, meats, vegetables and eggs by a great team of France's leading chefs.Even if you have only schoolboy French, but enjoy reading recipe books, the sheer pleasure of these recipes will help you along. Texts are clear, easy to follow and full of useful tips.

Pierre-Jean and Jacques Pebeyre, who are among France's leading truffle specialists, also provide plenty of interesting back-ground information on when, where and how truffles are found, marketed and preserved. A "must" in any household where good food is a priority.

Restaurant Le Chiberta
3, rue Arsène Houssaye,
75008 Paris
Tel : 01 53 53 42 00
Fax : 01 45 62 85 08